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An RCD is a residual-current device, also known as a safety switch. The device is designed to monitor electrical current and disconnect the power when a leak is detected from a fault in wiring, an appliance or switch. The RCD will disconnect the power supply quickly enough to prevent injury from electrocution (usually in under 30 milliseconds). RCDs SAVE LIVES!

Australian Standards state:

“Air conditioning and heat pump systems incorporating a compressor shall be provided with a lockable isolating switch installed adjacent to the unit, which isolates all parts of the system including ancillary equipment, from the same location.”

“For split system air conditioning units, where the manufacturer requires the air conditioning system to be connected to the electricity supply by means of a plug and socket at the internal unit, the isolating switch installed at the external unit shall control the socket-outlet located at the internal unit.”

“Exception: the isolating switch may be installed at the switchboard supplying the system if the switchboard is dedicated to the equipment (e.g. an air conditioning plant room).”

AJF Electrical recommend that you should have an electrical inspection carried out if:
  • You are purchasing a property
  • The property is more that 25 years old
  • If it is more that 5 years since one has been done
  • If you are concerned about how any of the equipment may have been installed

Definitely NO!!

It is illegal for anyone but a qualified electrician to do any domestic wiring or house rewiring. Even if the work has been done to standard it will not pass certification which is bad news especially if you need to sell the property. It makes sense for safety to pay for peace of mind and hire a qualified electrician to carry out all your household wiring.

Clever home automation allows you to enjoy greater convenience and security in your home by smart designing, programming and integrating your electrical equipment.

The scope of home automation can range from structured wiring for video-intercom, internet, LAN and video, automated lighting control, security and keyless entry, to automated control of electric motorised blinds, motorised roller shutters, watering, air-conditioning, fans and other appliances.

This means your unit has identified there is an issue within itself and it has shut down to prevent any further damage. Depending on the brand you can generally retrieve an error code out of the unit. This will help identify parts that may need to be brought to the job to have repairs on the first site visit. Error code retrieval can usually be found online, depending on your unit.

Alternatively, you can try to reset the unit by turning off the power supply for between 5 and 10 minutes. This will do a system reboot and it may just return the system to normal operation.

This generally means there is no power getting to your head unit, or the indoor PCB is u/s (unserviceable). There could also be an issue with the isolator (outside power supply for the unit) or it could even have tripped at the circuit breaker. Make sure you check the circuit breaker before making a call out.

There may be a blockage somewhere in the drain of the unit. Dirt, dust and debris build up in your air conditioner. These blockages cannot always be reached without the right equipment or know how. We recommend not to try this yourself. However a good start is regular maintenance of your units.

We recommend getting your air conditioner serviced and cleaned by a professional at least every 12 months, and more often if it is in constant use or if you have pets etc. that live inside.

Please note – not all air conditioning cleaning companies are equal. If you are comparing prices, make sure you are comparing the service also.

  • Clean Your Filters – gently lift the front cover and slide out the filters. Check them for any damage. It’s better to replace the filter now than the whole unit later. If there is no damage wash them with a hose. Remember to hose the filter from the under side to prevent anything getting stuck in the filters. Leave them to dry before re-fitting them the same way.
  • Set Your Remote Mode Correctly – run on the COOL setting as DRY and AUTO tend to do the same thing (cycle in and out not giving you a constant cooling experience).
  • Set Your Remote Fan Speed Correctly – options for LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH and AUTO can be selected. The AUTO setting means the unit will cut in and out, so using LOW, MEDIUM or HIGH will give you a continual air flow.

This may seem obvious but firstly, check the batteries are OK.

Another thing you can do is check another remote from another room if you have the same brand of air conditioners throughout your home. If the second remote works on the unit then your remote is faulty.

If the second remote does not work then it indicates the receiver PCB is at fault and you will need to contact an air conditioner technician to replace parts.

Firstly, check that you have the correct remote settings.

Make sure the remote is on the COOL setting as DRY and AUTO tend to do the same thing (cycle in and out not giving you a constant cooling experience).

Another issue may be that the unit is in need of a clean. When there is a build-up in the unit cold air may struggle to make its way through. In this case you can try our basic maintenance tips above and if the issue persists you will need to get the unit professionally cleaned.

An air conditioner that is not cooling very effectively may also have a refrigerant problem. If you have a gas leak in your unit this may be the cause of your unit not cooling and in this case you will need to contact an ARCTick qualified professional.

Firstly, check if your filters are dirty.

If they are clogged this could be restricting air flow causing your system to work harder. It could also be a fan out of balance in the unit so if you have checked your filters and they are good you should contact a technician to adjust the fan in your unit.

The two main reasons that smoke alarms chirp or beep is to alert the occupants of a low power condition or to alert of a contaminated detection chamber. To distinguish between the two, please take the following steps:


  • 10-year non removable lithium battery
    If the alarm is beeping about once a minute with the red light flashing at the same time, indicates that the lithium battery is partially depleted and the alarm needs to be replaced (check the “replace by” date marked on the side of the alarm).
  • 9-volt replaceable models only
    A fresh Alkaline battery should last for over a year. When the battery power is low and replacement is necessary, the smoke alarm will beep and the red light will flash at the same time about once per minute for at least 30 days. The heat alarm will also beep once per minute, but the red light will not flash at the same time when the battery is low. The battery must then be replaced. Also, replace the battery if the alarm does not sound when the Test button is pressed. For maximum reliability, replace the battery at least once per year. When you replace the battery, you must press the test button to check that the alarm is functioning correctly.


  • 10-year lithium rechargeable, non-replaceable back-up battery

    Look at the smoke alarm and ensure that the green LED is illuminated. You may see the red LED flash every 40 seconds, this is perfectly normal and indicates that a “self-test” cycle has been conducted. If the green LED is not illuminated, then there has been a mains power failure and the smoke alarm back-up battery is nearing depletion. Please check and reset the circuit breaker in your home’s distribution board and return to examine the status of the indicators. If in doubt contact a licensed electrician.

    If the alarm has been chirping/beeping as a result of mains power failure and the battery is nearing charge depletion, the alarm may continue to chirp/beep for a few hours while the rechargeable battery is being recharged after mains power restoration. This will stop as soon as the battery charge point exceeds the lower threshold.

  • 9-volt alkaline battery back-up
    If you have a mains primary powered smoke alarm with a replaceable 9-volt Alkaline battery and the alarm beeping/chirping coincides with the red LED indicator flashing (once every 40 seconds), then this is an indication that the back-up battery is in need of replacement. Please replace the depleted battery with one of the following brand types:
    • Duracell MN1604,
    • Energizer 6LR61,
    • Philips 6LR61,
    • Varta 6LR61 or
    • Ultralife U9VL-J Lithium

It is important to carry out regular cleaning and alarm maintenance, as this will minimise the risk of nuisance beeps and false alarms from dust and contaminant ingress.

  1. Turn off mains power to the alarm (for mains powered alarms). The green light will go out.
  2. With the thin nozzle attachment on your vacuum cleaner, vacuum around the vents.
  3. Clean the cover using a damp cloth. Dry with a lint free cloth.
  4. Turn the mains power back on. The green light will come back on.

There are two different types of batteries used as battery back-ups in the Brooks mains powered alarms. The batteries could be the sealed in Lithium batteries that last the 10-year life of the alarms or the replaceable type 9-volt alkaline battery as its back-up power supply.

We also have primary battery powered smoke alarms which are either sealed, non-replaceable, non-rechargeable 10-year lithium batteries or the 9-volt alkaline replaceable type battery. The 9-volt alkaline battery will need changing across the life span of the alarm. Typically, this should be undertaken annually.

The rechargeable back-up Lithium batteries are non-replaceable as required by the Australian design standard. These batteries should last the lifetime of the smoke alarm (10-years).

It is not unusual for a Lithium battery back-up smoke alarm to “beep or chirp” for a few hours after the alarm has been powered down for a considerable time (and run the back-up battery flat). As soon as the rechargeable batteries reach a minimum charge level, the beeping or chirping will stop.

As for the replaceable Alkaline type battery back-up models, you will know when you need to change the battery, as you will hear a single regular beep (low battery warning) coming from the alarm, however it is recommended that you change the battery every year before this occurs (especially if you do not want to be woken in the early hours of the morning to change a battery!).

How to change the battery:

  • Turn off the mains power to the alarm (for mains powered alarms). The green light on the alarm will go out
  • Insert a flat headed screwdriver into the removal slot of the alarm. This is marked with an arrow. Make sure you keep the screwdriver horizontal (i.e. parallel to the ceiling)
  • Slide the alarm off its base and you will be able to see the 9-volt battery in the back
  • Replace the battery in the back of the alarm with one of the following recommended 9-volt alkaline batteries:
    • Duracell MN1604,
    • Energizer 6LR61,
    • Philips 6LR61,
    • Varta 6LR61 or
    • Ultralife U9VL-J Lithium
  • Take care with the battery clip and wires as damage to these will result in constant beeps, meaning that the unit will need to be replaced
  • Slide the alarm back on its base
  • Turn the power back on. The green light on the alarm will come back on
  • Finally test the alarm to ensure the unit is working correctly

Please note that the alarm head will not be able to be refitted to the base without a battery being fitted. This is an Australian design requirement to prevent alarms from being refitted to bases without back-up batteries.

Performing a regular test is a vital part of ensuring continued fire and carbon monoxide detection. Alarms should be tested weekly to ensure everything is working correctly.

In the centre of the smoke alarm, there is a clearly marked test button.  Gently push the test button and hold for approximately 10 seconds.  The smoke alarm will sound, release the test button and the smoke alarm will continue to sound for a few seconds and then stop. If you cannot reach the smoke alarms from ground level, the Brooks smoke alarm is designed to be easily pressed with a broom handle or similar. This is safer than climbing up on a chair to test the alarm.

If you have other alarms in the property, they should be linked together. This means that if one alarm sounds, it will send a signal to trigger the other alarms in the property – so you can hear them sound in the background. Finally, repeat the steps on all other alarms in the property.